From its sacred Hindu origins to Mughal-era constructions, explore the rich history and enduring significance of the Verinag Spring, a tranquil oasis amidst the majestic hills of Kashmir

The spring of Verinag is the reputed source of the River Vitasta. In Hindu times it was known as Nila Naga and was sacred to the snake deity of that name. Nilmata Purana tells us when Parvati had obtained the consent of consort Siva to incarnate in Kashmir as the River Vitasta in order to purify the country which had been defiled by the touch of Pisachas who appeared to have been some outlandish barbarians, he struck the earth at the site of the spring with his trident and thus cleared the way for the issue of waters of the Parvati-Vitasta from the nether world. Hence, the Tirtha also bore the alternate name of Sulaghata, “Trident Stroke”. It seems to have retained considerable importance among Hindu places of pilgrimage even as late as Akbar’s time of Abul Fazal who mentions the existence of a number of stone temples in the east. At this time it had already taken its present name of Verinag borrowing it probably from the district ‘Ver’, the name at that time of Shahabad Pargana. Abul Fazal adds that it is a pool measuring a jarib which tosses in foam with an astonishing roar, and its depth is unfathomable and is surrounded by a stone embankment.

The construction of the octagonal basin and the arcade which now surrounds it, was commenced by Jahangir and completed in the time of Shah Jahan. The former writes, “It is an octagonal reservoir about 20 yards by 20 yards. Near it are the remains of the place of worship for recluses. Cells cut out the rock and numerous caves. The water is exceedingly pure. Although one couldn’t guess its depth, a grain of poppy seed is visible until it touches the bottom, there are many fish to be seen in it. As I heard that it was unfathomable, I threw a cord with a stone attached, and when this cord was measured in metres it became evident that the depth wasn’t more than one and half of the height of man. After my accession, I ordered them to build the sides of the spring with stone, and they made a garden around it with a canal and built halls and houses around it and made a place such that travellers all over the world can point out few like it.”

This information from the pen of the emperor himself probably accounts for the complete disappearance of the stone temples and caves whose materials would afford the person in charge of building operations to tempt a quarry to be lightly set aside of the buildings which Jehangir ordered to be constructed here only the range of twenty-four arches round the spring, remains partially intact.

The arches were originally built of stone, the walls being surmounted by a row of beautifully carved brackets which supported the caves. A number of these are still in existence. On two sides of the octagon are larger chambers each containing a staircase leading to the upper storey, no trace of which is left. The brick facing of the majority of the arches as well as ruins of the walls of the second storey over the entrance chamber belong to the repairs done by Wazir Punnu in the reign of Late Maharaja Ranbir Singh. The two inscribed stone tablets one belonging to the time of Jehangir and the other of that of Shah Jahan, were built into the wall of the arcade. The inscription of Shah Jahan was originally fixed in the wall of the entrance chamber but was for some unknown reason removed some years ago by the public works department contractor who was commissioned to raise the floor of the promenade around the spring presumably for irrigation purposes. The raising of the level of the promenade accounts for the markedly stunted appearance of the arcade.

Jahangir’s inscription which is dated the 5th year of his reign runs as follows:

Padshah-I-Haft Kishwar ‘Adalat-Gustar’ Abu-Al-Muzaffar Nur-Ud-Din Jehangir Ibn Akbar Shah Ghazi Batarikh-I-Sanah 5 Julus Darin Sar-Chashma Faiz Amin

Nuzul Ajlal Farmudand; Tarikh

Az Jehangir Shah-I-Akbar Shah

In Bina Sar Kashidah Aflak

Bani-E-Aqal Yaft Tarikash

Qasr-Abad-O-Chashma-I-Varnag

Translation: The king of seven dominions, the dispenser of justice, the victorious lord, Nur-ud-din Jahangir son of Akbar Shah Ghazi, bestowed grace upon this bounteous spring in the fifth year of his reign.

Through Jahangir Shah, son of Akbar Shah, this foundation raised its head to the high heavens. The source of wisdom discovered its date, may the place and the spring of the Verinag endure forever.

The last line gives the date 1029 (AH) – 1619-1620 (AD)

Shah Jahan’s inscription reads thus:

Haider Ba Hokum-I-Shah Jahan Padshahi Dahr

Shukr-E-Khuda Ki Sakht Chunin Absharjui

In Jui Dada Ast Zi Ju-E-Bahisht Yad

Zin Abshar Yaft A Kashmir Abrui

Tarikh-I-Jui Guft Ba Gosham Sarosh-I-Ghaib

Az Chashma-I-Bahisht Birun Amadast Jui

Translation: The lord be praised for that Haider, by the order of Shah-i-jahan, the monarch of the universe, constructed such a cascade and such a watercourse. The water course is reminiscent of the stream that flows in the heaven; and the cascade that Kashmir derives honour from it. The invisible angel whispered the date (of construction) of the water course in my ear. “This spring has sprung from the fountain of heaven”.

The last line gives the date AH 1036, corresponding to AD 1627-1627.

After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the Hindus reclaimed what they had lost. Some of the cells are now used as idol chambers, and priests serve as guides to visitors.

The surplus water of the spring was discharged by an underground conduit, the mouth of which is visible from above. Passing under the buildings the conduit crossed the garden and carried the water to the royal bathrooms, the ruins of which and of other buildings are still to be seen outside the rubble wall on the east side. The stream which flows from the spring is about 12 metres in width and runs throughout the length of the garden. It is spanned in the middle and at the northern end by two modern barahdaris. Only the upper terrace is enclosed through the presence of the ruined water chute, over which the stream rushes down, before leaving the garden, suggesting the existence of a lower terrace.

The garden in spite of its much-curtailed dimensions the presence of unsightly huts built by the local priests, and the general dilapidated condition of its streams and buildings, has been quite sensible; for the way-worth Jahangir, who expired at Chingas near Rajouri on his return journey from Kashmir, prayed with his dying breath to be conveyed to Verinag to be buried there. The garden with its shady trees, ice-cold water, and murmuring streams, overshadowed by the Sombre pine-clad hills, is a place pre-eminently fitted to be the retreat of a recluse and the final resting place of a world-weary emperor.

The writer is a Class 9^th student of Sabir Abdullah Public High School Anantnag. She has written this article under the guidance of Mr Aijaz Ahmad Ganie. Feedback at [email protected]

Navreena Mushtaq