Farooq Ahmad, a resident of downtown Srinagar, is fond of old Bollywood songs. These songs filmed in Kashmir valley feature legendary Bollywood stars like Shammi Kapoor, Asha Parekh, Shashi Kapoor, Rajendra Kumar, Rishi Kapoor, Dimple Kapadia, Rajesh Khanna and Amitabh Bachchan. For Farooq, the main aim of watching old songs is to see the past beauty of Kashmir valley, especially of the Dal Lake, Char Chinari, Gulmarg and Pahalgam.
The main attraction in Kashmir for Bollywood films in 1970s, 80s and 90s was the Dal Lake and its environs. Many songs were recorded at Char Chinari islands located on two different sides of Dal Lake. Reaching the islands required water transport like ‘Shikara’ or boats.
Dal is a lake in Srinagar (Dal Lake is a misnomer as Dal in Kashmiri means lake) integral to tourism and recreation in Kashmir. It is called the “Jewel in the crown of Kashmir” or “Srinagar’s Jewel”. The lake is also an important source for commercial operations in fishing and water plant harvesting. The shore line of the lake is about 15.5 kilometres (9.6 mi), and is encompassed by a boulevard lined with Mughal-era gardens, parks, houseboats and hotels. Scenic views of the lake can be witnessed from the shore line and Mughal gardens of Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh, built during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, and from houseboats or cruising along the lake in the colourful shikaras. During the winter season, the temperature sometimes reaches −11 °C (12 °F), freezing the lake.
The lake covers an area of 18 square kilometres (6.9 sq mi) and is part of a natural wetland which covers 21.1 square kilometres (8.1 sq mi), including its floating gardens. The floating gardens, known as “Raad” in Kashmiri, blossom with lotus flowers during July and August. The wetland is divided by causeways into four basins; Gagribal, Lokut Dal, Bod Dal and Nagin (although Nagin is also considered as an independent lake). Lokut-dal and Bod-dal each have an island in the centre, known as Rup Lank (or Char Chinari) and Sona Lank respectively. The houseboats are closely associated with Dal Lake which provide accommodation to tourists in Srinagar.
The famous Dal Lake of Srinagar city includes 3 islands, 2 of which are marked with beautiful Chinar trees located at Bod Dal and Lokut Dal and known as Rupa Lank (Silver Island) and Sona Lanka (Gold Island). They are marked with the presence of majestic Chinar trees at the four corners, thus known as Char-Chinari (Four Chinars).
The Char Chinari Island gardens came into limelight in 1970 with the movie song, Achha To Hum Chalte Hain, in the film Aan Milo Sajna of 1970, filmed on actors Rajesh Khanna and Asha Parekh.
The Char Chinar used to be a favourite haunt of tourists for its serenity and aesthetics as four gigantic Chinars stood on the four corners of the small island amid the vastness of the pristine lake.
Murad Baksh, brother of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, constructed the Rupa Lank. The second Chinar Island, known as Sona Lanka (Gold Island), is located on the Lokut Dal, and overlooks the holy shrine of Hazratbal.
Sona Lank, at the south end in the third portion of the lake, was raised by Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin in 1421 AD for the shelter of boatmen in Bod Dal (Big Dal). He built a three-storeyed house on the island which was destroyed by an earthquake.
Emperor Jahangir also built a cottage there, which also has vanished. It was rebuilt by Afghan governor Amir Khan Jawansher (1770-76). Nehru Park is an island just a few yards away from the roadside near Shankaracharya Hill.
Chinar trees have been an important part of Kashmiri tradition. A Chinar tree is found in almost every village in Kashmir. These trees have survived for ages, because Chinar is basically a long-living tree. It spreads wide across a region of cool climate with sufficient water. The tree has several properties: its leaves and bark are used as medicine, the wood, known as lace wood, has been used for delicate furniture and the twigs and roots are used for making dyes.
Chinar Leaf is a symbol of Kashmir. Chinar leaf is very beautiful which is green in summer season and in autumn the colour changes to red, amber, and yellow.
The word “Chinar” originates from a Persian word which means “fire”. The reason for this is that in autumn season, the red radiant leaves of Chinar tree make it appear as if the tree has caught fire. The Chinar leaf looks almost the same as a Maple tree leaf.
Chinar trees can be found almost in every corner of valley, hills, planes, cities, villages and parks. Due to these reasons, they are widely preferred in gardens. Char Chinar island in the middle of the Dal Lake has been a favourite place of emperors and empresses and later it attracted famous foreign writers/visitors like Bernier, Forster, Moorcroft, Vigne, and many other travellers. If you, too, are looking to escape the hustling and bustling of the city, then Char Chinar is the perfect place for you to take a break!
Over the years the size of the lake has shrunk to a large extent due to environmental changes and population growth. Protection measures to save the Dal from further hazards has been the prime concern of the authorities and people connected with the tourism industry in particular.
During the winter season, migratory birds hover above the lake, making it a magnificent scene. The Dal offers splendid colours and views with every change in the weather, which mesmerises visitors and offers perfect shots to a photographer.
In February 2022, the Jammu and Kashmir Forest Department successfully completed the transplanting operation of two tall Chinars at the famous Char Chinar in Dal Lake to restore its erstwhile glory. It was done on the directions of Manoj Sinha, Lt. Governor of Jammu and Kashmir. The Forest Department had formulated a strategy in October 2021 in consultation with technical experts of Floriculture Department, LCMA and Scientists of SKUAST and JKFRI for restoration of ‘Ropa Lank’ in Dal Lake popularly known as Char Chinar, by transplanting tall Chinars – the State tree of Jammu & Kashmir.
The unique operation was executed on February 19, 2022, and completed on the unique date 22-02-2022 when the two Chinars were finally planted, braving rain and snow on the day. Earlier, the 2014 floods left two mighty Chinars damaged, denting its iconic view from the boulevard around the lake.
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Mohammad Hanief