Recollecting my memorable experiences, challenges and rich cultural heritage during my first posting in Machil Valley
My first place of posting was in a charming valley, covered in lush green forests and sheltered in the east of Kupwara, which boasts a rich diversity of medicinal plants and is an ideal destination for tourists. In April 2017, I was appointed as a Lecturer in the Department of School Education Kashmir. After a two-month break, I received my posting order and felt a sense of grief when I saw my posting place named Machil, about 200 km away from my hometown Pulwama. However, I eventually convinced myself of the benefits and status of the job and displayed decisiveness and willingness to take the plunge and join my place of posting.
It was August 2017, a moderately sunny day in summer, when I was on my way to Kupwara. I had never been to Kupwara in my life. From Kupwara, I started my journey towards Machil, and within a short span of time, a series of villages (Goose, Khumriyal, Kalaroose, Thayan, Sarkuli, etc.) unfolded. The lush green landscapes provided a feast for the eyes, and in certain green patches, the scorching sun appeared like incandescent bulbs over the fields and hilly terrains.
Finally, the winding road with macadam coating changed to rough cement tiles to prevent the skidding of vehicles during winter days and reached Zamindar Gali, popularly known as the Z Gali, at an altitude of 3150 meters (10,334 feet). All the vehicles were stopped here for recording entry details with the army authorities.
After a continuous journey of 3 hours in a Tata Sumo from Kupwara, the first village of Machil came into sight. To my amazement, it was 60 km away from Kupwara, and I muttered, “O’ my God! It is the farthest unexplored place I have ever been, and it is away from everyone. I found myself just entering into the “stone age”.
Within the twinkling of an eye, the cool breeze began to blow while playing undulating notes on the leaves of the green trees. The serene and dilapidated shaded roads of Machil and the mesmerizing mountains all around reminded me of famous hill stations like Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam, and Yousmarg. They were much more fascinating and enchanting. Moreover, the log cabins (wooden houses) and people’s attire in traditional Kashmiri dresses attracted my attention.
Finally, I reached the place (Dudi) where I had to join, but the school was off due to my late arrival at 5:00 pm. There, I met a local inhabitant, Haji Manzoor Ahmad Sheikh, and his magnanimous son Mr Khurshid Ahmad Sheikh, a wonderful and beautiful human being who, without asking me any questions, took me to their home and offered me not only a night stay but also a permanent accommodation at his home. Their care, admiration, kindness, hospitality and trust bestowed on me are memorable and gave enough confidence to my dwindling hopes.
The next day, when I entered the school, I found it a place so romantic and charismatic, surrounded by mountains with lush green pine trees. The principal of the school, Mr Abdul Rashid Khan, an honest, dedicated, responsible, and energetic person, gave me a warm welcome, and his encouraging words provided me with enough assurance and optimism.
Moreover, the better accommodation offered to all the outside teachers by the magnanimous people of the area in their homes, without any room or mess charges, and, most of all, the peacefulness and beauty, all proved to be contributing factors in my joining.
Luckily, after my joining, many lecturers namely Dr Hilal Sahil, Shahzad Abullias, Aakash Ahmad Shah, Dr Mehraj Ud Din Waza, Sajad Ahmad Tantry, and Mohmad Idrees from my home area, south Kashmir, also got posted in the same school. This gave me an exhilarating and fuzzy feeling and the greatest gift of my life was their friendship. Their good company, lively conversation, and the endearments of friendship fill my mind with great pleasure.
I am also highly indebted and beholden to my adorable, strong, and compassionate wife for her unflinching support, love, and care towards my parents and younger brother Adil Gul in my absence.
Machil is no doubt a fascinating beauty and a rich cultured area with lots of hidden stories and places to explore. It consists of 12 villages namely Machil, Pushwari, Dudi, Dapal, Katwara, Misribehak, Lindoub, Chountiwari, Doban, Ring Payeen, and Ring Bala. It has a population of 16,683 with an almost equal distribution of males and females, with a population density of about 761 persons per square kilometre and 9 panchayat halqas. The male literacy stands at 89%, while the female literacy rate is 53%. The people mostly speak Kashmiri, but some speak Pahari and Pashtu. Every village has a mosque.
The people mainly cultivate and grow potatoes, turnips, and Rajma beans, and every house, mainly built of wood, has a kitchen garden with Haakh (Collard green), beans, and maize. They also rear backyard poultry along with sheep and cows. Being very close to the LOC, this area is controlled by the army and is not open to tourists unless special permission is taken. A lot of facilities for the local population are provided by the army and also provide them labour work on the making and repairing of roads.
The forests of Machil have an enormous diversity of aromatic and medicinal plants. The common names of some medicinal plants used by the local inhabitants are Patrees (used for stomach pain and diabetes), Rouspatri (used for blood pressure and fatty liver), Ratanjosh (used for joint and back pain), Dailaader (used for healing bone fractures), Sheatkaar (used for 80 diseases, especially heart problems), Shilajit (used for reproductive health and weakness), Kahzaban (used for fever, cold, and chest infections), Chohud (used for cough and influenza), and Guchchi mushroom (used for gastric problems and indigestion).
Moreover, this area is also rich in wild edible fruits like Rangresh, Kilmech, Wanwagun, Pup, Hargil, etc., as their common names. Therefore, in view of the rising demand for global health care, this area may experience significant attention towards research and traditional medical knowledge. Making this area an organic agriculture spot and tourist destination will change the destiny of the people and the place.
I transferred here in September 2023 after 6 years of joining. Wrapped in memories, I never knew when, how, and where life takes turns, but I will never forget my first place of posting and the noble and hospitable family of Haji Manzoor Ahmad Sheikh. I will never forget my friends and colleagues Mr Javeed Ahmad Mir, Gh Mohmad Sheikh, Bashir Ahmad Sheikh, Late Mohmad Khaliq Sheikh, Dr Showkat Ahmad Mir, Dr Waheed, Dr Javeed, Dr Zahoor, Syed Ishfaq Andrabi, Peerzada Mohmad Toyoub, Mr Umar, Mohmad Akbar, Asif Ahmad, Riyaz Ahmad Lone, Mohmad Jamal, Gh Nabi, Hilal Ahmad, Gul Mohmad, Mohmad Fateh, Ab Hameed Sheikh, and more, my students and all the cheerful people of this area for their love and respect. The romanticism of the peaks and beauty of Machil Valley will always be there in my memory and my dreams.
The writer is a Lecturer in Chemistry at BHSS Arihal Pulwama. He can be reached at dr*************@***il.com