Made from fresh pink rose petals, Kashmir’s sun-cooked Khambeer was, undoubtedly, the best Ayurvedic medicine
Kashmir’s rich traditions are an integral part of the region’s rich cultural heritage. Our great tradition of making Gulkand at home, locally known as Khambeer, is not only a sweet preserve used in Kashmiri kitchens for decades but also a part of our rich culture. It is made from fresh rose petals (sometimes sun-dried) which are crushed with sugar in a mortar pestle, locally called Nyeam (Okhli). It is a thick jam-like brownish paste also called rose-petal jam having a distinctive flavor, unique aroma and delectable taste. It is said to have originated in the Mughal Empire and has been used to cool, soothe and cure the body during hot and cold weather.
Making Gulkand at home is a simple and enjoyable process. One can experiment it with different herbs and spices to create a unique flavor. This traditional Gulkand is the most common type of Gulkand made from fresh rose petals (Damascus variety) pulverized with sugar and a variety of aromatic herbs and spices. It is known for its sweet and floral taste all over the Valley.
The word Gulkand comes from two words ‘gul’ and ‘kand’, meaning flower and sweet, respectively. It is a very popular delicacy of Kashmir and is often referred to as the ultimate lavish royal treat.
There are various fantastic health benefits of eating traditional Gulkand; including, reducing inflammation, improving gut health, and enhancing skin & hair quality, etc; the list is long. It is also a good source of vitamins and minerals. In addition, it is a great source of dietary fibre which helps with digestion. And with all these nutrients, Gulkand is a great food to keep one’s body healthy and balanced.
There are, no doubt, several types of Gulkand known to us, each with its own unique qualities and characteristics besides the traditional Kashmiri home-made type. Which include: Organic Gulkand, Mixed-Fruit Gulkand, Sandalwood Gulkand and Amla Gulkand. But of all these varieties, the traditional Gulkand is the most widely accepted, frequently demanded and moderately priced, thereby making it a popular choice for everyone. But how sad! This traditional variety of ours is very least prepared at our edifices now with much dependence on market products. In fact, we have forgotten all our homemade recipes that once used to be essential items in every household in Kashmir.
Gulkand is considered the best Ayurvedic medicine and a natural remedy for anxiety and stress as it has a calming effect on the mind and can help to reduce stress and promote relaxation which we all crave in the present times. In Kashmir, it was mostly kept for winters and generally used with traditional green tea locally known as Kahwa. However, in India, Gulkand has been consumed for ages, mostly relished in the delicious ‘Paan’. Even the Unani system of medicine has also realized the importance of this homemade delicacy, often recommended as a perfect medicine for colds and coughs during winter months in Kashmir.
I recall Gulkand for Kehwa was made up of rose petals that would preferably grow in almost every courtyard in villages. Elders in the family would collect pink rose petals and then grind them with sugar in a traditional Okhli. The crushed paste was later filled tightly in an air-tight bottle to be kept hanging on a balcony window for sun-cooking in the autumn sunshine, only to be used for making Kehwa during cold winter days.
I had seen my father making Gulkand by grinding rose petals in the traditional Okhli, quite umpteen times. He later used to pack the paste, brown in colour, in the glass bottle, hung to be sun-cooked from the tower window of our old house. He would, at any cost, not let anyone open its lid, till the couple of weeks would go by. In fact, a Gulkand bottle would remain dangling on the window of our neighbour until yesteryears. It is apt to mention here that not only were rose petals used for making Gulkand but the discarded saffron flower petals, were also used to make the delicacy of Khambeer at home.
Those days, when Gulkand would not remain available at home, people would not hesitate to fetch it from their neighbours to add it to Kehwa which was considered a cure for cough and cold in the chilly season. Our wisdom-blessed blessed folk, would not miss any chance to get the homemade Gulkand prepared ahead of winter as they trusted least on the Kehwa spices being brought from the market.
According to noted poet and author Zareef Ahmad Zareef, “Homemade Gulkand was pure and had no preservatives added to it which market varieties have in abundance. Now people wholly and solely rely on market items, and have forgotten their rich culture. No doubt prosperity has come in our life, yet, we all need to preserve our rich cultural heritage.”
The traditional variety of it is still made in some rural areas of Kashmir where pink roses mostly grow. Though these pink roses are also a rarity now, seen only on graveyards, yet, we must try to grow them again in our courtyards so that, the legacy of Gulkand lives on in the rural wonders of Kashmir. We need to preserve this home-manufactured delicacy and save it before it goes extinct! It is time to taste incredible Gulkand benefits which are devoid of any preservatives. Mix a teaspoon of it in warm milk or water for a refreshing sherbet or spread it on your slice of bread and relish it like jam.
The writer is a teacher and a columnist. He can be reached at ma*********@******co.in