Srinagar: Pheran, Kashmir’s traditional, unisex wear for the biting, teeth-chattering cold of the Valley’s winters, has these days become a signature fashion trend, though it was not an outfit worn for any style statement until a few years ago.
The long dress, which has maintained its basic function of covering the body from shoulder to knees, has survived the challenges of time. Now, it is coming up in different designs, hues and cuts.
According to oral historian Zareef Ahmad Zareef, the Pheran existed in Kashmir long before the valley came under Central Asian influence in the 14th century. According to Zareef, the early Pheran was called Loach. It used to be two pieces of cloth held together with a unique stitching. It was worn round the year in different fabrics. With time, its name was mixed up with Pairahan, the Persian word for garment, which gave it the present shape of Pheran.
The winter wear has survived various trends of modern western style over the last three decades, and today it is style statement in both casual and formal settings, a significant change that has not taken place only once over its existence, Zareef added.
“Pheran is used as outer clothing,” says Uzma Mushtaq, a successful entrepreneur, dealing with selling and designing of dresses. “Its design is made as per the taste of the person who wants to wear it.”
Uzma told Kashmir Reader that the Pheran’s design depends upon the fabric, its stitching style, and the nature of the pattern on it. If it is meant to be worn for offices, she says, the cloth is tailored with stitching only, but if for weddings or parties, different designs are made on it, besides tailoring cuts.
“I use Tilla on velvet for weddings, Zari work for casual, and different print designs for casual on the same cloth. Sometimes consumers decide the fabric and the design themselves,” she said.
According to Nowsheen Raja, another successful young entrepreneur dealing with the designing of different dresses, young Kashmiris, both living here and outside, have shown interest and pride in wearing the Pheran after a blend of stitching and design was incorporated into it. This year, Sadia, who has been selling designer wear-styled pherans from her shop in the city for the last three years, has used tweed and wool to present her designs.
“I am using Kashmir handwork on them with mixed colours,” she says. “Last year, it was mostly Tilla. It sells. I sell more than 20 designer Pherans a day now. The trend is picking up.”
Over the years, politician of all hues wear Pherans in public to connect with masses. The Abdullahas are usually seen in them, and, since last year, Mirwaiz Umer Farooq too has joined the look in his public appearances.
Uzma said that the Pheran’s function of giving warmth and keeping the person comfortable has given it an edge, which draws customers to pick it up. This edge is added to by the intricate designs of Kashmir’s famous Chinar leaves, and of almonds, adorning different parts of the Pheran.

Junaid Nabi Bazaz