Need to preserve the art of pashmina weaving and empowering local communities

The revival of crafts that involve creating items with one’s hands and skills is not only about embracing traditional work but also about empowering local communities and preserving the artistry that has been passed down through generations. It weaves a legacy of craftsmanship that is deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of a region.

With influences from many cultures, the story of pashmina is rich and varied. The art of making handicrafts has remained an integral part of human history, particularly in regions where artisanal skills and craftsmanship profoundly impact the culture and ethos of a place. The handicrafts of Kashmir include the kani shawl, paper mache, khatamband, carpet weaving, wood carving, kandkari copperware, and tilla work. Among these crafts, pashmina weaving tells the story of classic beauty, stability, and versatility, being a luxurious fabric known for its warmth and softness. From its beginnings in the foothills of Changthangi to its current standing as a symbol of luxury around the world, pashmina is referred to as “soft gold” obtained from the Himalayan goat.

Pashmina has seen many changes throughout history, adapting so gracefully to shifting cultural trends that it has never faded from sight while staying true to its artisanal roots. The history of pashmina reveals that it is more than just a story of entangled threads; it is an ageless craft woven into Kashmir’s rich cultural legacy. The growth of pashmina weaving in Kashmir was encouraged by Mughal emperors such as Akbar and Shah Jahan, as it symbolized prestige and luxury and was an essential component of Mughal court clothing. Today, pashmina continues to charm people not only as a fashion accessory but also as a living reminder of a long-lasting tradition of craftsmanship.

The handicraft sector has played a significant role in the socio-economic and cultural life of Kashmir. It has contributed tremendously to the lives of people, providing direct and indirect employment to thousands of artisans, weavers, and traders in the industry. The sector has been crucial for economic livelihood, employment generation, tourism, and trade, and has also empowered women by providing them with stable employment, enabling them to contribute to household income. This income has granted women greater financial autonomy, which has had a ripple effect on their social standing, decision-making, health and hygiene, education for their children, and community development. Alongside academic studies, girls are now being taught these valuable artisanal skills. Traditionally limited to household chores and deprived of formal education, these girls are now gaining financial autonomy and a stronger voice in family decisions.

The decline of this industry would lead to the loss of traditional skills passed down through generations. For thousands of Kashmiri artisans, who mostly live in rural areas, reviving these crafts can reduce unemployment and provide sustainable income in a region where other sectors are fluctuating in both local and international markets. Traditional techniques are at risk of being lost due to mechanization, globalization, and a lack of support. Reviving these crafts ensures that specialized skills like hand-spinning and hand-weaving, which cannot be replicated by machines, survive. These crafts have been a major draw for tourists; therefore, enhancing tourism can boost the local economy. Showcasing and promoting Kashmiri handicrafts globally will strengthen Kashmir’s cultural soft power and introduce the world to its unique artistic heritage.

Modernity and technology have influenced and continue to influence spheres of life across the globe, but the craftsmanship of Kashmir still attracts admiration from people worldwide. The G20 meeting in Kashmir has given a push to the craft industry, making it stand out in the market. GI tagging for pashmina products and the creation of the Kashmir Craft Village aims to preserve and promote the authenticity and heritage of these crafts. The Craftmark Certification is also enhancing the global reputation of Kashmiri crafts by focusing on skill enhancement, providing direct market access, and offering social security benefits to artisans. Aiming to empower the artisan community, which has faced economic hardships in recent decades, initiatives are being taken to keep traditional designs, motifs, and methods alive. There is a growing focus on sustainability and eco-friendly production processes, which appeal to tourists and international interests alike. Women-led cooperatives can play a greater role in reviving the crafts and pashmina, enhancing their influence, and promoting self-sufficiency and communal advancement.

By Darakshan Hassan Bhat

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Darakshan Hassan Bhat