As tourism begins to boom in this picturesque valley, concerns about environmental impact and cultural preservation are mounting, but for now, the beauty of Gurez remains a haven for nature lovers and adventure seekers

In 1895, British author Sir Walter Lawrence described the Gurez Valley as “one of the most beautiful scenes in all of Kashmir,” with its tourmaline waters of the Kishenganga River framed by “mountain scarps of indescribable grandeur.” Lawrence predicted that Gurez would soon become one of Kashmir’s most popular Himalayan tourist destinations, a prediction that is coming true with each passing day. The main driver of this development is DySP Sheikh Adil, who initiated the “Go Gurez” campaign. This effort has not only attracted locals but also outsiders.

I first learned about Gurez from Dr. Suheel, who recently published a book titled Cultural Encyclopedia of the Dard Tribe via Gurez Valley and Ladakh. Before the book launch, hosted by the Shina Cultural Center, I had the opportunity to visit the Gurez Valley.

As a nature lover and explorer of lesser-known tourist destinations, I am drawn to stories about endangered cultures and their efforts to preserve their traditional ways while adapting to a rapidly changing world. The Gurezi people’s dedication to their traditions is remarkable. Despite the 21st century, the road to Gurez remains closed for four months of the year, yet it holds immense potential to become a top tourist destination.

Determined to explore the valley thoroughly, I covered about 60 miles of dirt roads following the Kishenganga upriver into the Tulail basin and trekked into the surrounding mountains. The scenery was nothing short of magical: waterfalls cascaded down emerald slopes, snowy peaks loomed in the distance, and hand-tended fields of potatoes and maize were adorned with wildflowers. The wooden villages scattered throughout gave the impression that we had stepped into a folktale.

The warmth of the local people was palpable. The villagers were amazed to see Dr. Suheel, who teaches their children and emphasizes the importance of education. We were often greeted by crowds eager to host us, as there are no hotels in the valley. We stayed in log houses where traditional carpets and pillows served as furniture and were treated to meals of traditional sabzi and tea.

The locals are excited about the potential of Gurez to become an off-the-beaten-path tourist destination and commend the local administration for promoting it through social media and involving local musicians. Many locals dream of golf resorts, music centres, well-established educational institutions, and even helicopter tours from Srinagar. However, I wondered how an influx of tourists might impact Gurez, both positively and negatively. While tourism could provide much-needed income to this isolated area, it might also alter the traditions and natural beauty that define the place.

From Razdan Top at 11,672 feet to Chakwali (the last village), the nature of Gurez displays a spectrum of colours. The Kishenganga Dam is mesmerizing, and Habba Khatoon Peak, sacred to the local culture, is named after the 16th-century poetess known as the Nightingale of Kashmir. The Dawar area is also known for its diverse attractions. One memorable night was spent in SheikhporaTulail, a village known for its high literacy rate, thanks to Dr. Suheel’s educational efforts.

From Angaikot to Khandhyal Point, Gurez is blessed with stunning natural beauty. At the HabbaKhatoon peak, low clouds clung to the pyramid-shaped mountain named after the poetess HabbaKhatoon. We stayed at the Crown Palace Hotel, newly opened and run by Masood ul Hassan, who shared his vision of expanding the hotel to offer garden views of the Kishenganga River. The Indian Army maintains a good relationship with the local population, providing crucial assistance, especially in winter. The state government has constructed several tourist rest houses throughout the valley, though many are incomplete, so we often stayed with local families.

Most tourists base themselves in Dawar for a few days, primarily viewing the valley from their car windows. Locals, dressed in traditional attire, often extended invitations to us, refusing payment and demonstrating their hospitality. Dr Suheel’s students guided us through their villages and shared insights about the Dard Shina tribe, which is native to the area and speaks Shina. Traditionally, life in Gurez and Tulail has revolved around subsistence farming and shepherding. Though manual labour remains central, education is increasingly valued. Many residents migrate to other Kashmiri towns during the harsh winters, returning in summer to tend their crops and enjoy the tranquillity of their ancestral homes. Despite the challenges, they remain deeply connected to their land. We hoped to trek from Badoab over the mountains, linking the summer camps of nomadic Gujjar goat herders, but this requires army permission, so we planned to return next time.

On our journey back to Dawar, we met Ajaz Ahmad, a social worker who expressed concern about the environmental impact of tourism. He highlighted the issue of garbage being discarded into the Kishenganga River and the limited capacity of the valley to handle tourist influx. His concerns about environmental degradation underscore the need for better management.

After spending several fulfilling days exploring the valley, it was time to head back home. I sincerely hope that efforts will be made to preserve Gurez’s natural beauty and cultural heritage. We must come together to protect Gurez.

By Ramiz Bhat

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Ramiz Bhat